ANTONIA ABLASS
ANTONIA ABLASS
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SUSTAINIBILITY STATEMENT

ANTONIA ABLASS
ANTONIA ABLASS

Sustainability is a widely used – overused – term, yet the concept is so essential. Ultimately, it means nothing more than not destroying one’s own livelihood – an idea that should sound obvious.

Apparently, it’s not. My work revolves around sustainability, which is why I find it important to define my understanding of it. This understanding is not fixed; it evolves constantly as I learn and relearn.

For me, sustainability means showing respect for the environment – including all plants, animals, and ecosystems.

However, this is not easy. We live in systems that are not sustainable within themselves. This is why I believe we must work within the existing structures. But at the same time, we must question, rethink, and break these structures open.

Textiles within sustainability 

The textile industry is one of the most polluting industries worldwide. Its supply chain is long and complex, which is why my appreciation for textiles is so high. I believe textiles can help address global challenges.

One particularly troubling issue is the increasing reliance on fossil fuels in textile production. Polyester, nylon, and elastane are essentially plastics that are extruded through small nozzles. They shed microplastics into the environment, polluting it at every stage of their lifecycle – from production to disposal. In contrast, natural materials are biodegradable and have complex molecular structures that offer remarkable properties, such as breathability, moisture-wicking, temperature regulation, and durability. These natural properties make them not only more environmentally friendly but also much more pleasant to wear.

My Criteria for Sustainable Textiles

The Right Fiber

There will never be one "sustainable" fiber. To reduce our dependence on cotton and synthetic materials, we must diversify our fiber sources. The key is to choose the right fiber for the right application – and, most importantly, to prioritize locally available fibers to shorten transportation distances and strengthen regional economies.

Use of Available Resources

The most sustainable option is always what already exists. And there is an abundance of materials that are already available. Therefore, we should first use what’s at hand. At the same time, it’s essential to ensure that recyclable materials are not mixed in a way that renders them unrecyclable.

Circularity

To maximize material use, textiles must be kept in circulation. According to the Cradle to Cradle principle, there are two cycles: the technical and the biological. To ensure effective circularity, materials from different origins should not be mixed. Blending animal, plant, and synthetic fibers should be strictly avoided. However, combining plant and animal fibers can be acceptable if chemical recycling is not intended and the materials can return to the biological cycle.

Organic Farming

I am impressed by the positive impact of organic farming when it genuinely aligns with natural cycles. Good organic farming practices follow rotational cycles that enrich the soil. This leads to the accumulation of humus, which improves water retention, fosters microbial life, and efficiently decomposes plant matter. Organic farming also involves cultivating diverse crops, which benefits the ecosystem. For example, chili plants can naturally deter pests.

This is why I also find cotton farming acceptable in certain cases and when done in moderation. Contrary to the widespread assumption, the cotton plant itself does not require excessive amounts of water. The issue arises when it is grown in regions without adequate rainy seasons, necessitating artificial irrigation.

Quality

Quality is always important – and often used as a justification for unsustainable materials. Everything we create should be of high quality. But when it comes to textiles, assessing quality is difficult. Consumers cannot easily determine fiber length, spinning techniques, dye types, or finishing processes. Greater transparency and stricter legal regulations are therefore essential.

We Need Systemic Change!

A truly sustainable (textile) economy requires fundamental changes. Our consumption must decrease, and economic systems should no longer be based on infinite growth. Society and businesses should foster and demand repair and care, which would increase the value of textiles and other products.

Factories must transition to renewable energy, and water cycles should be closed-loop. It must no longer be acceptable for workers along the supply chain to endure undignified conditions and starvation wages. Education systems must place more value on textiles.

 

To establish a functioning circular economy, a state-supported recycling system is necessary. This system should collect and resell functional items (clothing, sports equipment, furniture, etc.), dismantle broken items into reusable parts, and properly process the remaining materials within the Cradle to Cradle framework.

 

I believe individual responsibility is important – showing respect and appreciation for the environment – but it’s essential not to overwhelm ourselves. It’s dangerous to place too much emphasis on individual actions. Meanwhile, governments continue to subsidize climate-damaging industries, new highways are being built, and fast-fashion brands are increasing the polyester content in cotton garments.

 

Still, we must forge new paths, propose solutions, and spark enthusiasm for genuine change.

 

Other Materials

I try to use as much organic material as possible. However, sometimes I have to rely on other options. In such cases, I buy second-hand whenever possible or, if purchasing new, I choose high-quality, locally made products. This works better at times and worse at others.

Sometimes, I simply don’t have the capacity to spend hours searching for the best option. But this is exactly why we need systemic change – so that we no longer have to worry about poor working conditions in other countries, everything is repairable, and...